Frequently asked questions

The price is always individual and depends on height, area, surface type, level of soiling and the access method (rope or platform). After photos or a site visit we prepare a no-obligation quote, usually within 24 hours.

In most cases no. We work using rope access or mobile platforms, which is usually faster and cheaper than erecting scaffolding, especially for shorter jobs.

Yes. We carry liability insurance for damage caused during the work, so your property is covered.

We operate throughout Bratislava and the surrounding area (Senec, Pezinok, Malacky, Stupava and others), and elsewhere in Slovakia by arrangement.

We clean facades and windows year-round, as long as temperatures stay above freezing. The best period is spring to autumn.

Yes. For managers, homeowners' associations and companies we provide one-off and regular cleaning of facades, windows and common areas.

The price comes from the size of the opening, the floor height and how much cleaning is needed first. Send us a photo of the balcony and rough dimensions and we usually have a quote within 24 hours.

Not when anchored correctly. On an insulated facade we anchor into the load-bearing structure behind the insulation and seal the penetrations; where drilling is not allowed we use bonded systems.

If it concerns common parts such as the facade, a ledge or the parapet, yes. For work on your own balcony most buildings also require it, because the change is visible from outside. We recommend checking before ordering.

UV-stabilised netting, properly tensioned and anchored with stainless fixings, lasts years. What shortens it is sagging, mechanical damage and cheap material without UV stabilisation.

We remove them and disinfect the surface before fitting the barrier. Netting over an uncleaned surface makes no sense, as the mess would be sealed underneath.

Yes. That is exactly why we work from rope or a platform, so the floor level is no obstacle and we need neither scaffolding nor access through neighbours' flats.

Not an occupied one. Both the barn swallow and the house martin are protected species, and interfering with an occupied nest requires an exemption from the nature protection authority. We can, however, fit barriers outside the nesting season and clean the surfaces beneath the nests.

Only briefly. Birds get used to a motionless object or a sound, usually within days or weeks. A physical barrier works permanently, because it does not frighten but removes the place to land.

The price is set by the area and pitch of the roof, the type of covering, the thickness of the growth and whether it is cleaning only or coating too. Send us a photo of the roof both close up and from a distance plus rough house dimensions and we usually quote within 24 hours.

Set up wrongly, yes, which is why we choose the pressure, nozzle and distance to suit the covering and trial the method on an inconspicuous spot first. On asphalt shingle and older fibre cement we use no high pressure at all, only chemistry and a gentle rinse.

It goes by condition rather than the calendar, but it is sensible to inspect the roof and gutters once a year, ideally in autumn after leaf fall. North-facing roofs and those under trees need attention considerably sooner than the sunlit south slopes of the same house.

It can, but without pressure. Older fibre cement sheets may contain asbestos and high-pressure water would release fibres into the surroundings, so only spraying and a mild rinse are used. If the covering is already crumbling and cracking, the right answer is not cleaning but professional removal and replacement.

It does not, but without it the moss returns sooner. Cleaning removes the growth yet leaves the surface as absorbent as before, whereas impregnation or coating reduces that absorbency. On glazed clay tile, by contrast, a coating usually makes no sense and cleaning is enough.

Not the same day. The covering, especially concrete tile, holds moisture at depth for several days after it feels dry to the touch, and a coating over a damp substrate peels later. So we plan cleaning and coating as two visits with a weather-dependent gap.

When the weather is settled, dry and warm, so generally from spring to autumn. A coating needs a dry substrate and a surface warmer than the dew point, so it is not applied in frost, in fog or onto hot metal in direct sun. March and April slots fill first, so it pays to get in touch early.

No scaffolding, we work from rope or a platform. For cleaning, access to water and power on the property is useful; if they are not available we bring our own supply, but we need to know in advance for pricing and planning.

Yes, they are part of the job and always done after the roof. Debris loosened from the covering washes straight into the gutters, so clearing them earlier would be pointless. While there we also check the fall, the joints and the bracket fixings.

The price is set by the area, the degree of soiling and whether joint sand is topped up and the surface sealed. Those finishing steps are what most differentiates two courtyards of the same size. Send photos and a rough area and we usually have a quote within 24 hours.

With the wrong method yes, which is why we work with a rotary surface cleaner rather than a narrow jet. A narrow jet held close scours joint sand out to depth and, on concrete paving, strips off the fine pigmented layer, which cannot be restored. A surface cleaner spreads the energy around a circle and holds a constant distance from the surface.

Yes, and it is the most important step after the washing itself. Sand in the joint braces the blocks against each other, and without it the surface starts to move, blocks rock, edges chip and the bedding washes out. The sand goes onto a dry surface, is brushed into the joints, settled with water and topped up a second time once dry.

At an ordinary family house the next machine clean is due in two to four years. Position matters most: an open, sunny surface lasts far longer than a shaded courtyard or one under trees. Sealing and regular autumn sweeping, so that leaves do not overwinter on the surface, both lengthen the interval.

It is worth it anywhere soaked-in stains are likely, that is driveways, parking bays and terraces beside a barbecue. A sealer is not a varnish: it soaks into the pores and reduces absorbency, so stains do not have time to penetrate and future cleaning is much easier. It will not prevent moss or mechanical damage, it only slows the return of dirt.

We recommend neither. Below roughly five degrees water freezes in the joints, the chemistry does not work and the surface is slippery, so the result is poor and the risk high. Newly laid paving needs time for the bedding to settle and the joints to compact, otherwise pressurised water flushes them out. The best time is spring to autumn, when the surface has dry days ahead of it after washing.

You can walk on it as soon as we finish, and drive on it once the joints are compacted, usually the same day. If the surface is being sealed it first has to dry completely and then the sealer needs to cure, so we recommend keeping a driveway free until the following day. The exact timing depends on the weather and we will tell you on site.

In most cases we lighten them markedly; complete removal of a years-old stain on light paving is not something we can promise. Oil soaks into the pores of the concrete and the longer it sits the deeper it goes. We use an alkaline degreaser, dwell time and hot water, usually over several repetitions. Where only one or two blocks are affected, turning the block over or replacing it is often the cleanest answer.

Yes, and it makes sense because roof access is then not paid for twice. We clean panels with a soft brush and demineralised water, never with high pressure or anything abrasive, and we work in the morning or evening so that cold water does not hit hot glass. While we are there we also check the space beneath the panels and the roof outlets.

The price comes from the number and complexity of the windows or the glazed area, the access method and the condition of the glass. Flats are usually priced per window, glass facades per square metre. Send us photos and the number of windows and we usually quote within 24 hours.

Streaks are almost always something left behind on the glass: minerals from hard water, detergent residue, or water that dried in the sun before it could be pulled off. The fourth cause is a worn squeegee rubber. That is why at height we work with deionised water, which leaves no deposit as it dries.

Yes, that is exactly what rope access is for. We reach the outer face of a fixed pane regardless of the floor and without needing to enter the flat. The inner face is handled separately when you are at home.

Yes, blind cleaning is done together with the windows and is a separate item. External aluminium blinds are cleaned slat by slat with a soft brush and a mild agent, from rope on upper floors. Fabric and wooden shading is treated more gently, as wet methods would damage it.

Yes, for managers and owners' associations we clean the glazing of common areas, meaning stairwell windows, entrance portals and skylights, as a one-off or at an agreed interval. We prepare the quote in a form that can be put to a meeting or a written vote.

For a flat or a house, twice a year works well, in spring and autumn. A glass facade on an office building needs two to four times, a shopfront weekly to monthly. Location decides most, that is whether the building sits on a busy road or in a courtyard.

Yes, but not in frost. Below zero the water freezes on the glass before it can be pulled off, and frozen water in the frame and seals can cause damage. In mildly frosty weather an additive in the water helps; in deeper frost or strong wind we would rather move the date.

Yes, we do post-construction window cleaning, but it is different and slower work than a routine clean, which is why it is priced differently. We soak the glass first and only then work with a blade on the wet surface. If alkaline run-off from concrete sits on glass for months it can etch the surface, and such a mark can no longer be washed off.

For outside cleaning, no; we reach the outer face from rope, from a platform or with a pole from ground level, you just need the windows closed. We only need to come inside if the inner face of the glass or internal blinds are to be cleaned, and then we agree a time that suits you.

No, provided the pressure, nozzle and standoff are matched to the surface. On delicate thin render over insulation we work at low pressure and let the chemistry and its dwell time do the real work. Excessive pressure from close range strips the coloured layer, exposes the aggregate, and the facade then absorbs water and gets overgrown faster than before.

Usually every few years, and it is position and orientation that decide, not the age of the facade. Shaded, insulated and damp walls grow algae faster and need a shorter interval, while sunny, ventilated walls last longer. More practical than counting years is watching whether the shade of the facade changes and whether a green film appears on the north side.

The price is set by the area, the complexity of the facade, the height and access method, the surface type and the degree of soiling. Between two houses of the same size the condition of the facade is usually the biggest difference, because established lichen is far more laborious than dust. Send us photographs of the house from every side plus a close-up of the soiling and we usually have a quote within 24 hours.

Because thin render over insulation is decoupled from the building's heat and cools below air temperature at night, so dew forms on it in the morning. Algae need moisture rather than dirt to take hold, which is why new, clean houses turn green too. It is not a construction fault or a sign of water ingress; the answer is cleaning and biocidal treatment.

A matter of seasons, though nobody can honestly promise an exact figure, because what decides it is how quickly your wall dries. On a sunlit, ventilated facade the treatment holds considerably longer than on a north side under trees where the surface is wet every morning. Cutting back shrubs and trees by the wall is the cheapest measure that extends that interval.

Not when it is done properly. It is not the flat areas that are critical but the details, that is window reveals, sills, flashings and penetrations, where water gets in if the jet is aimed perpendicularly and from close range. So there we work at an angle from the top down with lower pressure and a greater standoff, and any blown render or damaged sealant is spotted and flagged to you before work begins.

It is the colloquial Slovak name for washing a facade with a pressure washer, that is what we technically call high-pressure cleaning. It has nothing to do with lime or limewash, even though the term is sometimes misspelt in a way that suggests it does. On an insulated facade we use it only as a supplement to chemistry and at reduced pressure.

If the colour is sound and the problem is only algae, dust or deposits, cleaning is enough. If wiping a dry section with a dark cloth leaves noticeable coloured dust, the render is chalking and cleaning will only expose it, so repainting is needed. The same applies with unevenly faded colour and hairline cracks. Even then the cleaning is not wasted; it is necessary preparation, because paint will not hold on an overgrown facade.

From spring to autumn, while temperatures stay away from freezing. The work uses water, which in frost would freeze in the pores of the render and widen micro-cracks. Strong sun on a baking wall is unsuitable too, since the chemistry dries before it can act, so in summer we wash sunlit walls early in the morning or towards evening.

The price comes from the length of conductor on the roof, the number of downconductors, the material of the system, the earthing conditions and the access method, so no single figure fits every house. Send us photos of the roof and facade plus a rough plan and we usually have a quote within 24 hours.

No. The inspection report is issued by a qualified inspector holding the relevant authorisation, not by the installation company. We provide the installation part at height by rope access and, for handover, work with an inspector who tests the system and issues the report.

For a typical family house it is usually one to two working days, though we only confirm the time after a survey. What extends it most is a complex roof, more downconductors and difficult earthing conditions; running the downconductor along the facade from ropes is the quick part.

The noise is lower and steadier than with a hammer drill or breaker, because the bit cuts the material rather than pounding it. Dust is handled by extraction right at the bit, wet drilling means the slurry is caught and vacuumed, and we cover the surfaces around the hole beforehand. So what is left in the flat is a hole, not a building site.

Yes, but for larger diameters in load-bearing elements we need a structural engineer's opinion or the design documentation, because cutting reinforcement affects the building's structure. Before drilling we check the position of reinforcement and services with a detector and shift the hole if needed.

Depending on size and location it may count as an advertising structure requiring a building authority permit, and in a conservation area the heritage authority becomes involved too. We do not obtain the permit for you; that is normally handled by the business owner or the sign manufacturer, while we carry out the installation to the approved design.

If the work touches common parts, that is the facade, roof, parapet, a load-bearing wall or a floor slab, then yes. This also applies to a penetration drilled entirely from inside your flat, because the structure itself is common property. We recommend checking before ordering, it saves complications afterwards.

Yes, that is exactly why we work from ropes or a platform. The floor level is no obstacle, we need neither scaffolding, a pavement permit nor access through neighbours' flats, and we always secure the area below the workplace so the building can keep operating.

In spring or autumn, that is before the storm season arrives. From June to August demand climbs sharply and lead times stretch, even though that is when the system is needed. If a downconductor is visibly damaged or the house has already been struck, do not wait for a season, get in touch straight away.

It cannot be answered responsibly without photos or a survey, because on a facade most of the price is substrate preparation rather than material. The price is driven by the extent of the damage, the height, the type of facade, how articulated it is and the access method. Send us a photo of the damaged spot and of the whole building and we usually have a quote within 24 hours.

Done properly it does not, but that is not achieved by mixing the original shade exactly. The surrounding facade has faded over the years, so paint mixed to the original colour would be lighter than its surroundings. We either paint the whole colour field out to a natural edge or adjust the shade to the weathered surface. Rebuilding the same render texture and grain matters just as much.

It can, and where damage is concentrated it is the more sensible option. Full renovation makes sense when defects are scattered across the whole elevation, or when the coating is so weathered that a local repair would look like a patch regardless. We decide by how much of the surface is unsound, not by how much of it is visible.

We would not advise it. A crack lets water into the layers under the render, and each winter frost prises it a little further open, so an hour's repair turns into hacking off, a new reinforcing layer and a new coating within a few seasons. The cheapest facade repair is always the early one.

For local repairs, no: we do them by rope access, descending to the damaged spot from the roof. Scaffolding only makes sense for a full renovation of an entire building, where work runs continuously across the whole elevation. For a spot repair, scaffolding would cost several times the work itself.

Usually not in winter. Facade paints carry a temperature window in their data sheet for both air and substrate, typically starting around five degrees, and a fresh coating needs several hours without rain. Preparation, hacking off and joint sealing can be done in a wider window than the final coat, so a job can be split.

Yes. The facade is a common part of the building, so the repair is ordered by the managing agent or the association, not by an individual flat owner. For the agent we can prepare a quote with a scope description and photographs for a meeting or a written vote. An emergency is treated in most buildings as urgent work without waiting for a vote.

Yes, repointing joints is classic rope work. We cut out the old sealant completely, clean and dry the joint, insert a backer rod and apply a flexible sealant. Sealing over old hardened sealant without cutting it out does not last, because the new sealant bonds to a substrate that is going to come away anyway.

In the order of once every ten years or more, but orientation, exposure and the type of the original coating decide it, not the calendar. South and west elevations fade faster; north and shaded ones grow algae. If the paint chalks onto your hand or hairline cracking is appearing across the surface, it is time.

In most cases yes; we handle emergency calls in Bratislava out of turn and are usually on site within 24 hours. We do not promise it unconditionally, though. After a windstorm, during widespread damage and in strong wind, when working at height is not safe, it can take longer. In that case we give you a realistic time on the phone and advise how to secure the area below the damage until then.

Secure the area below the damage so that nobody stands and nothing parks there. Tape, cones or moved benches will do, plus a notice on the entrance in an apartment block. Bear in mind that sheet metal or a shard can land several metres from the wall. Do not climb up yourself, and photograph the damage; you will need it for the insurer.

Not always, and deliberately so. The first visit is about safety: we take down or secure whatever could fall and temporarily cover the point where water is getting in. A permanent repair needs material in the right size and colour, suitable weather and sometimes sheet metal made to measure. If it can be repaired on the spot we do it, but never at the expense of the repair lasting.

Yes, by arrangement over the phone, but at night the work is securing, not repair. Under artificial light you cannot reliably judge the substrate or find every loose area, so at night we take down or secure whatever could fall, close off the area below and cover the points where water enters. We return in daylight to agree the permanent solution.

No, it is a different service. A classic emergency service handles what is inside the building and linked to utilities: a burst riser, a blocked drain, a gas leak or a heating fault. We handle the building's outer envelope, meaning anything that could fall from height or let water in from outside. For a gas leak or a fault on a public network, call the utility's emergency line.

In most cases it is an insurance event, but the decision always rests with the insurer and the specific policy. We help with what we can influence: we photograph the state before, during and after the work, record what was dismantled and covered, and add a quote for the permanent repair. Those are the documents insurers usually require. Keep the dismantled parts until the claim is closed.

When common parts are damaged, that is the roof, parapet, facade, gutters or downpipes, the work is ordered by the manager or the association's chair and is normally paid from the operation, maintenance and repair fund. In an emergency nobody waits for an owners' meeting; averting imminent damage is dealt with at once. If an individual owner calls us we come as well, but the order has to be settled with the manager.

We advise against it, and certainly not in wind or rain. Loose sheet metal acts like a sail in the wind and has sharp edges, and a parapet or roof is no place for a ladder. What you can do, and what genuinely helps, is to secure the area below the damage so nobody walks there, and to photograph it. Leave the rest to us.

In most cases yes. A corroded gutter bracket, a loosened screw in the parapet flashing or a crack in the render do not appear overnight; they are simply invisible from the ground, and wind is only the last straw. So we recommend inspecting the roof, parapet, flashing and facade at least once a year, ideally in autumn before the windy season. We go over it from ropes and you get photos showing what needs repairing now and what only needs watching.

One to three times a year depending on what grows around the house. A house with no trees manages on one autumn visit, a house near deciduous trees needs two, and a house under pines up to three, because needles fall all year. The first inspection refines the interval once we see how much debris has collected.

The price comes from the gutter length, the number of downpipes, the height and access method and the state of the deposit. The gap between fresh leaves and a compacted layer several years old is usually bigger than the gap between two houses. Send us a photo of the house and the approximate gutter length and we usually quote within 24 hours.

From what happens during rain and beneath the gutter. Water spilling over the gutter edge instead of going down the pipe, a silent downpipe in heavy rain, a wet band on the facade, green film under the gutter, grass growing out of the gutter, or icicles at the roof edge in winter are all reliable signs. Just look at the house from outside during the first heavy rain.

Yes, and it is a substantial part of the job. A downpipe most often blocks at the bend below the hopper and at the transition into the drain, that is where you cannot see. We flush the pipe, run water through and watch the outlet. If it does not run at full bore, we clear it mechanically until the flow is restored.

No, we do not need scaffolding. We reach gutters from a rope above or from a platform below, depending on the height and on whether there is room for a platform. For rope access we need anchor points on the roof or parapet, and we assess their suitability during the survey.

In autumn once the leaves are down, usually from the end of October into December. That is when the gutter holds the most and when it is being readied for winter, which turns a blocked gutter into a damaged one. The second sensible slot is early spring before the wetter months, which also shows what the frost has done.

It depends what falls into your gutter. Against large leaves they help, against needles and seeds they effectively do not, as those pass in through the holes and cannot get back out. No cover replaces inspection, it only changes the reason for it, and most covers have to be removed for cleaning.

We document the finding and tell you what it needs. Adding or replacing brackets, re-hanging a sagging section, sealing a joint or refixing a loose downpipe can be done on the same access, but it is a separate job beyond the cleaning. We do not replace whole gutter systems.

Yes. On apartment blocks the work is priced by gutter length and downpipe count and is usually ordered by the building manager or the owners' association. On flat roofs we clean the roof outlets, their debris guards and the surrounding area instead of gutters, and again finish with a drainage test.